How to make and use oil washes?

Great video, showing the varnished vs unvarnished results helped show why it was necessary. Also the what to do if you mess up was helpful hehe. Couldn't really see what was going on when you started washing the finished model which wasn't ideal but got the gist of it still.

Great stuff mate! I've been waiting quiet sometime now for you to bring something out like this. I'm an inspiring artist myself, but never really played around much with oil paints. You are more than an amazing painter and should keep the good work up!!!!

That Video give me great results! Thanks!

Always buyed the Citadel Washes but i was never satafied!
Creating own washes with oilpaint is a great advantage! Keep your work up Jaraoslaw!

Really nice tutorial!! I tried oil on my phoenix and I have some questions:what tipe of varnish you use? The gw one is good too? You put it on all model (like all phoenix) or just where you have to use oil? Thank you!

Lopos,
I have had success with Vallejo brand satin varnish and an airbrush. It's what Jara uses in his videos. If you don't have an airbrush, you can also use a canned varnish like krylon clear coat (be sure to get the satin kind!) I have also used that on larger things like buildings that I don't want to spend time airbrushing - it works well.

With the Vallejo acrylic varnish I get the issue of the oil wash not running :( doesnt flow at all.

I have been using Vandyke brown oil wash over Vallejo satin varnish. Once the oil wash has dried it can be rubbed off just by touching it, should this be how it works? Do I just varnish over it again to stop this happening?

kronicpainting,

Are you using matt, satin or gloss varnish? I use the satin Vallejo and get reasonable flow. I would imagine gloss would flow best but matt would be too chalky and would tend to "bleed" the oil away from where it is deposited so it wouldn't flow as well. There is also the amount of varnish applied. Too much matt varnish can go very chalky because of the matt agent (I think it is talc or similar) used in the paint.

I forgot to add of course that you have thinned the oil wash down sufficiently for it to flow easily, but I assumed you had already done this and the issue was with the properties of the varnish finish.

Thanks for the reply fellas. I have tried many different varnishes now, only one that I can seem to make work for me is the minitire one from badger.. I have a bunch of the vallejo satin, gloss, and matte ive tried them all and the vallejo ones just don't do it. No flow at all. the oil paint runs fine on the satin from badger D: and sometimes, my oil paint lines, start to crack :O help would be great thanks.

I tried my first experiment with oil washing last night and was not happy with the results. I used Soho Urban Artist Oil Colors, and I thinned with odorless turpenoid. I applied a coat of liquitex gloss varnish to the models. The oil paint flowed along the varnish fairly well, but pooled up in places. My biggest issue though was that the paint was grainy and muddy looking. I have been able to wipe free most of the grainy paint. Will I be able to brighten these areas back up once I varnish over them again when this paint dries?

I tried my first experiment with oil washing last night and was not happy with the results. I used Soho Urban Artist Oil Colors, and I thinned with odorless turpenoid. I applied a coat of liquitex gloss varnish to the models. The oil paint flowed along the varnish fairly well, but pooled up in places. My biggest issue though was that the paint was grainy and muddy looking. I have been able to wipe free most of the grainy paint. Will I be able to brighten these areas back up once I varnish over them again when this paint dries?

I tried my first experiment with oil washing last night and was not happy with the results. I used Soho Urban Artist Oil Colors, and I thinned with odorless turpenoid. I applied a coat of liquitex gloss varnish to the models. The oil paint flowed along the varnish fairly well, but pooled up in places. My biggest issue though was that the paint was grainy and muddy looking. I have been able to wipe free most of the grainy paint. Will I be able to brighten these areas back up once I varnish over them again when this paint dries?

Trying this out, having large issues with both Grumbacher Pre-tested Odorless Thinner and Windsor & Newton Artists' White Spirit (with Cassel Earth). My wash mix, which seems to be in the right proportions, is separating out entirely too fast. Giving it just a minute in the cup without stirring and the pigment all sinks to the bottom. It does this in the model too - it's flowing well enough, but it almost instantly separates and I can see the pigments sinking and clumping. The result is extremely uneven coverage, excessive tiding, and a very dirty look to the dried wash, even in panel lines. What do you recommend?

So it's not just me then... I've been trying to fix this for a long time.. I'm using Normal White Spirit that I got from an arts and crafts store. With Lamp Black :/ no one has been able to tell me how to fix the issue.

Hes not using Vallejo satin varnish, since this varnis leaves a flatter result. Of you want to use vallejo, try what I do: 7 drops of vallejo gloss and 3 drops of vallejo satin with about 10 drops of water or thinner (vallejo). With an airbrush this will keep the metal colours shiny, yet wont make the non metal too shiny! A bit late respons but hope it helps anyone :)

thats a nice tip... I never thought of combo varnish techniques...
great thinking man!

b

I had the same problems as many of you are encountering. My fix was getting a artist grade oilpaint(cassel earth, van dyke brown, lamp black etc.)and artist grade odourless mineral/white spirit.
The pigment concentration in the paint as to be high and fine grain. This will also help with the flow of the wash as the pigments are to small to cause friction when applied!
Good luck!

some thing that never gets mentioned is AFTER you wash the miniature with the oil wash u take OFF the excess wash with a Cutip and Mineral spirits!

ha... couldn't figure it out until a friend told me! Doh...

Any one got any ideas on the mix of oil paint to spirits?

maybe something about the way it looks mixed? Should i see paint on the bottom of lid? etc

Bill

Hey Bill,
I actually think he did mention this in his video. And alot of other video's on oilwashes mention it.

infact, using a Cutip is something I wouldnt do. The vibers of the tip tend to stick to the model. I would use another, clean brush.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2JurVVWLzY

This guy explains a few things (allthough he does use a cutip, but ok)

Hope it helps!

HD Video link is not working.